There are certain culinary treasures that stand the test of time, enduring through changing trends and evolving personal tastes. For me, one such enduring influence has been Sally Schneider’s remarkable cookbook, “A New Way to Cook.” Over a decade ago (a truly humbling thought!), as I embarked on my journey away from home to Philadelphia, this book was one of a handful gifted to me by my mother. It became an almost exclusive guide in my kitchen during those formative years, a foundational text that shaped my understanding of ingredients and techniques.

While my collection of cookbooks has since expanded exponentially, filling shelves and often spilling over onto countertops, “A New Way to Cook” remains a constant touchstone. I frequently find myself pulling it out, not just for specific recipes, but to reference a particular method or to understand the ingenious logic behind Sally’s approach to cooking. The book is remarkably comprehensive, almost akin to the venerable “How to Cook Everything” series, offering deep insights into fundamental culinary processes rather than just a collection of dishes. It’s a testament to the power of learning core techniques that can be applied across countless ingredients and cuisines.

Recently, I felt compelled to revisit one of her standout preparations: a deeply flavorful roasted mushroom recipe. This technique originally featured as part of her coq au vin recipe, a dish I recall making and absolutely adoring, with the mushrooms leaving an especially vivid impression. The simplicity yet profound impact of her method for transforming humble fungi into a rich, umami-laden experience is something truly special, and it’s a technique I’m thrilled to share with you today, paired with a luxuriously creamy polenta.

Contents

The Art of Roasting Mushrooms: Unlocking Deep Flavor and a Savory Broth

The brilliance of Sally Schneider’s mushroom roasting technique lies in its clever two-stage approach. Many recipes call for simply tossing mushrooms in oil and roasting them until browned. While this yields tasty mushrooms, it often neglects a hidden potential: the incredible, concentrated liquid that mushrooms release during cooking. Schneider’s method harnesses this liquid, transforming it into a rich, aromatic broth that elevates the entire dish.

The initial covered roasting phase acts almost like a gentle braise, coaxing out the natural moisture and intense flavor from the mushrooms without allowing them to dry out. This creates a deeply savory liquid that captures the essence of the fungi, along with the aromatics like thyme, shallots, and garlic. It’s during this phase that the magic truly begins, building a foundation of flavor that is both delicate and robust.

Following this, the removal of the foil and the increase in oven temperature allow the mushrooms to achieve that coveted golden-brown crispness. The Maillard reaction, a chemical process responsible for the browning and delicious savory flavors in many cooked foods, comes into full effect here, adding layers of complexity and texture. By separating the liquid before this browning stage, we prevent the mushrooms from steaming, ensuring they develop distinct, caramelized edges while still retaining their tender interiors. This technique truly gives you the best of both worlds: perfectly roasted mushrooms and an intensely flavorful, ready-made sauce.

This dual-purpose approach is what makes the recipe so rewarding. With minimal extra effort, you yield two distinct but harmonious components from one process. The succulent, richly flavored mushrooms and their accompanying savory broth are, in my opinion, an absolute dream when spooned generously over a bed of warm, creamy polenta. It’s a testament to how thoughtful technique can unlock extraordinary flavors from simple ingredients.

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Roasted Mushrooms & Creamy Polenta

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Author: Alexandra Stafford
Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Yield: Serves 2 to 3 1x

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Description

This exquisite recipe brings together deeply savory roasted mushrooms with a luxuriously creamy polenta. The mushroom-roasting method is adapted from a genius technique found in Sally Schneider’s essential cookbook, “A New Way to Cook,” which yields both perfectly tender, browned mushrooms and a rich, concentrated broth. The accompanying polenta recipe, inspired by the Canal House ladies, is wonderfully smooth and serves as the ideal canvas for the earthy flavors of the mushrooms. This dish is hearty, healthy, and offers a comforting experience perfect for a fulfilling vegetarian meal or a sophisticated side. It’s a testament to simple ingredients prepared with thoughtful technique, resulting in complex and satisfying flavors.

Ingredients

For the creamy polenta:

1 cup organic milk, optional (for extra creaminess; otherwise, use 1 additional cup of water)
1 cup fine or medium-ground polenta or stone-ground coarse cornmeal
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving (optional)

For the roasted mushrooms and their savory broth:

1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as cremini (baby bellas) and shiitake, cleaned and stems removed/trimmed
Few sprigs fresh thyme (about 3-4 sprigs)
1 large shallot, finely chopped (approximately 2 tablespoons)
1 clove garlic, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1/4 cup dry sherry or a good quality dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio)
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus an extra pat for finishing, to taste
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Fresh parsley or chives, finely chopped, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

Prepare the Creamy Polenta: In a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pot, combine 4 cups of cold water with the 1 cup of milk (if using; otherwise, use 5 cups of cold water in total). Stir in the polenta and the initial teaspoon of kosher salt. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently with a whisk to prevent lumps from forming and to ensure even cooking. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low, or the lowest setting that maintains a gentle simmer. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the polenta is wonderfully tender and thick, which typically takes between 45 to 60 minutes. As it cooks, the polenta will absorb the liquid and swell considerably. If it becomes too thick or starts to stick to the bottom of the pot before it’s fully cooked, simply stir in additional hot water, a quarter cup at a time, until the desired consistency is achieved. Once tender, stir in the 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter until melted and fully incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning with more salt as needed, aiming for a rich, savory flavor. Keep warm, covered, while you finish the mushrooms.
Pre-roast the Mushrooms: Begin by preheating your oven to a moderate 325°F (160°C). Prepare your mushrooms: for shiitakes, remove and discard the tough stems (or reserve them for making vegetable stock). For cremini mushrooms, trim off just the very bottom, dry end of the stems and discard. Quarter any larger mushrooms, or halve smaller ones, aiming for pieces of roughly similar size to ensure even cooking.
In a 9×13-inch baking dish or a similarly sized roasting pan, combine the prepared mushrooms, fresh thyme sprigs, finely chopped shallots, minced garlic, dry sherry (or white wine), and extra-virgin olive oil. Season generously with a big pinch of kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to your liking. Toss all the ingredients thoroughly to ensure the mushrooms are evenly coated with the aromatics and liquids. Spread the mixture out into a single, even layer in the baking dish. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil, creating a sealed environment to trap moisture. Transfer the covered pan to the preheated oven and roast for exactly 30 minutes. This initial steaming process is crucial for extracting the flavorful liquid.
Brown the Mushrooms and Collect the Broth: After 30 minutes, carefully remove the pan from the oven. Immediately increase the oven temperature to a higher 450°F (230°C). Remove and discard the aluminum foil. Using a spatula or slotted spoon, gently hold the mushrooms back in the pan while tilting the pan and draining all the flavorful juices into a small saucepan. Set this saucepan of mushroom broth aside; it will become your delicious sauce. Once the liquid is drained, spread the mushrooms out again in a single layer in the baking dish. Return the uncovered pan to the now hotter oven. Continue to roast until the mushrooms begin to brown beautifully and develop slightly crispy edges, typically another 15 to 20 minutes. Be sure to stir the mushrooms once, halfway through this browning stage (around the 10-minute mark), to ensure even caramelization.
Reduce and Finish the Mushroom Sauce: While the mushrooms are completing their browning in the oven, place the small saucepan containing the reserved mushroom juices over medium-low heat on the stovetop. Bring the juices to a gentle simmer. Allow them to reduce slowly; there’s no need to reduce them by half, but simmering will concentrate their flavors significantly, creating a richer, more intense sauce. When the mushrooms are nearly finished roasting and are beautifully browned, add the tablespoon of unsalted butter to the simmering juices in the saucepan. Stir until the butter has fully melted and incorporated, enriching the sauce. Taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning as needed with more salt or a little extra butter to achieve your desired balance of flavor.
Serve and Enjoy: To serve this comforting meal, ladle a generous portion of the warm, creamy polenta into individual bowls. Spoon the perfectly roasted, golden-brown mushrooms over the polenta. Finally, drizzle liberally with the intensely flavorful, buttery mushroom sauce you’ve created. For an extra touch of freshness and visual appeal, garnish with a sprinkle of fresh chopped parsley or chives, and a grating of Parmesan cheese if desired. Serve immediately and savor the rich, earthy flavors.

Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour
Category: Dinner, Main Dish, Vegetarian
Method: Oven Roasting, Stovetop Simmering
Cuisine: American, Italian-inspired