My vision for our cross-country journey was grand, much like the unforgettable Asian escapade several friends experienced last summer. Their trip was a true culinary expedition, highlighted by a memorable yakstravaganza – a magnificent feast crafted solely from locally sourced yak. To prepare us for our own ambitious road trip, a thoughtful friend gifted me Jane and Michael Stern’s acclaimed book, Roadfood. This invaluable guide promised to uncover hundreds of the best, often under-the-radar, eateries nestled in cities and towns across the entire country, igniting hopes for our own gastronomic adventure.
However, the reality of the journey began with a less-than-auspicious start. After an intense hour-and-a-half of packing and repacking the car on a Sunday morning, we finally departed for Columbus, Ohio, feeling utterly famished. Before we even cleared City Hall, the siren call of Dunkin’ Donuts proved irresistible. Our subsequent three stops – Quiznos, Panera, and Starbucks – did little to bolster our initial culinary aspirations. The dream of a food-centric odyssey seemed to be slipping away with each chain restaurant visit.
A Midwest Culinary Road Trip: From Deli Heaven to Porridge Perfection
Shapiro’s Delicatessen, Indianapolis, IN: A Taste of Deli Heaven
Our spirits, however, were rekindled as we left Columbus on Monday morning, heading west towards Indianapolis with a newfound mission. Our destination: Shapiro’s, a legendary delicatessen, highly recommended in Roadfood, promising an unparalleled corned beef sandwich. The anticipation was palpable. Upon arrival, Shapiro’s lived up to every description: a classic, unpretentious cafeteria-style eatery, adorned with functional plastic chairs and sturdy Formica tables. It exuded an authentic, timeless charm, a testament to decades of serving simple, honest, and delicious food.
And true to its promise, Shapiro’s delivered a corned beef sandwich that, as the guide eloquently stated, “will take you straight to deli heaven.” Each bite was a revelation. The generous layers of thinly sliced, perfectly seasoned corned beef were incredibly tender, practically melting in the mouth. It was piled high between slices of exceptionally fresh, robust rye bread, which offered just the right amount of chew and a hint of caraway. The bread itself was a star, providing a sturdy yet yielding foundation for the succulent meat. To complete this symphony of flavors, the sandwich was accompanied by crunchy dill pickles, their vibrant acidity cutting through the richness of the meat, cleansing the palate and inviting another delectable bite. This stop at Shapiro’s wasn’t just a meal; it was a pilgrimage, a delicious validation of the Roadfood guide, proving that genuine culinary treasures awaited us beyond the ubiquitous chain restaurants. It set a new, optimistic tone for the rest of our journey.
New Year’s Eve in Madison, WI: An Unexpected Italian Feast
From the deli paradise of Shapiro’s, our route took us north towards Madison, Wisconsin. We consciously bypassed Chicago, strategically avoiding the inevitable chaos and crowds of New Year’s Eve in a major metropolis. Our friend Tara, a true local guide, proved invaluable in Madison. Thanks to her insightful recommendations, we secured a comfortable room at a Best Western, perfectly situated right by the impressive capital building. With our base established, we eagerly ventured down State Street, a vibrant pedestrian thoroughfare, in search of the perfect dinner to ring in the New Year.
Our initial thoughts for dinner had been Amy’s Café or State Street Brats, both popular local spots. However, the lively atmosphere and inviting aroma emanating from Tutto Pasta caught our attention, drawing us into this charming Italian trattoria. It proved to be a serendipitous choice for our New Year’s Eve celebration. The moment we stepped inside, we were greeted by a warm, bustling ambiance. Our meal began with freshly baked rosemary focaccia, fragrant and exquisitely warm, setting a delightful tone. Adding to the festive spirit, we were pleasantly surprised with two complementary glasses of champagne, a perfect toast to the incoming year.
The culinary delights continued with a refreshing Salad Helenica, followed by a rich and savory Chicken Marsala, its tender chicken bathed in a deeply flavorful mushroom wine sauce. To complement our choices, Ben and I shared a thin-crust Margarita pizza, its crisp base topped with fresh, vibrant ingredients – a simple yet perfect culinary punctuation to our meal. Having enjoyed a truly memorable dinner, we braved the biting -1ºF weather, making a swift sprint back to the warmth of our hotel. A huge thank you to Tara for her fantastic help and suggestions! While we regret missing Mickies Dairy Bar, which was closed for the New Year’s holiday, we are absolutely certain that Madison has left an indelible mark, and we will definitely be returning to explore more of its culinary scene.
Hell’s Kitchen, Minneapolis, MN: A Breakfast Revelation
Tuesday morning greeted us with a gentle snowfall as we departed Madison, making our way towards the vibrant Twin Cities. This morning held a special significance as we were set to reunite with three of Ben’s closest high school friends for breakfast at one of my all-time favorite spots: Hell’s Kitchen in downtown Minneapolis. Nestled in the heart of the city, this establishment boasts an almost countless array of virtues, making it a true breakfast mecca.
From the moment you step inside, the dedication to quality and unique flavors is evident. Their homemade peanut butter, for instance, is legendary – so much so that even Jane and Michael Stern of Roadfood fame have been quoted on Hell’s Kitchen’s menu, praising it as arguably the best in the country. This creamy, rich, and utterly addictive spread is served alongside their fresh, wholesome multi-grain bread, creating a simple yet profound delight. Another must-try is their innovative sausage bread, a culinary masterpiece crafted with tender bison sausage, sweet currants, crunchy pecans, and a subtle hint of coffee – a truly unexpected and harmonious combination that tantalizes the taste buds. Their huevos rancheros also come highly recommended, offering a hearty and flavorful start to the day.
The Unforgettable Mahnomin Porridge
The undisputed star of our breakfast, however, was the Mahnomin porridge. So irresistible was its appeal that three out of the five of us at the table ordered it. On a frigid winter day, with temperatures dipping to -5ºF, there is perhaps nothing more comforting and satisfying than a warm bowl of this extraordinary porridge. It is a carefully balanced mixture of earthy wild rice, naturally sweet dried blueberries, tart craisins, crunchy hazelnuts, and a generous pour of rich heavy cream. Each spoonful is a textural and flavor adventure – the chewiness of the wild rice, the bursts of fruit, the nutty crunch, all enveloped in creamy warmth. This dish alone is reason enough to venture downtown for breakfast on any given morning; it’s a taste experience that transcends a mere meal, offering true solace against the biting cold. Despite not being included in their published book, the Sterns’ high praise for Hell’s Kitchen’s homemade peanut butter, prominently displayed on the menu, perfectly encapsulates the quality and dedication found in every dish here.
Our culinary journey continues! Tomorrow, we depart for Iowa, anticipating a blend of caucus events and cherished grandparent fun. Stay tuned for the next delicious chapter of our adventure.
Recreate the Magic: Mahnomin Porridge Recipe
One of Ben’s friends kindly shared this incredible recipe, originally published on Kare 11.com. I’m absolutely eager to try making it at home, and I encourage you to do the same!
Mahnomin Porridge
Recipe From Kare 11, Minneapolis, Adapted from Hell’s Kitchen
- 4 cups cooked wild rice
- ¼ cup pure maple syrup
- ¼ cup dried blueberries
- ¼ cup craisins
- ½ cup roasted, cracked hazelnuts
- 1 cup heavy cream
Instructions:
In a heavy non-stick sauté pan, combine the cooked wild rice, heavy cream, and maple syrup. Warm the mixture thoroughly over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until everything is heated through and well incorporated. Once warm, stir in the dried blueberries, craisins, and roasted, cracked hazelnuts, mixing gently to ensure they are evenly distributed. Serve this comforting porridge immediately in individual bowls. For an extra touch of indulgence, offer sides of warm heavy cream and additional pure maple syrup, allowing everyone to customize their bowl to perfection. Enjoy this taste of Hell’s Kitchen in your own home!